Ollantaytambo's archaeological park, which is featured in my 3 weeks in Peru itinerary.

My 3 Weeks In Peru Itinerary: Mistakes I Made That You Shouldn’t!

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Read on to learn all of my mistakes I made during my 3 weeks in Peru!

Visiting Peru was very much a bucket list destination for me as it is for a lot of travellers, so having the perfect 3-week Peru itinerary was a vital part of my trip.

From the wondrous Machu Picchu to the beautiful oasis desert of Huacachina, there are so many unmissable places to visit all over Peru.

Looking back, I realise I made some crucial mistakes with my itinerary. 3 weeks is a tight schedule to visit all of the amazing places within the country.

So in this blog post, I’m sharing my exact itinerary, budget and where I stayed to ensure your adventure to this dream destination is as smooth and achievable as possible.

⌚ In a rush? My Hotel Recommendations for Peru:

Hotel España (Lima)
Hostal Mallqui (Cusco)
Casa Inka B&B (Ollantaytambo)

My 3 Weeks In Peru Itinerary

Without further ado, let’s dive into a day-by-day breakdown of my itinerary in Peru. I’ve emitted some travel days in between destinations, which are self-explanatory.

Day 1: Lima

Unless you’re travelling from elsewhere in South America, the capital city of Peru will be your first port of call in the country.

A lot of people say that Lima is quite missable and that there isn’t a lot to do there, but I beg to differ. It’s a vibrant place with a fascinating culture, full of historical sites.

It’s not on the same level as Cusco, which is more the Peru that you dream about seeing, but Lima still has a lot to offer.

View of Convento de San Francisco from my hotel terrace.
View of Convento de San Francisco from my hotel terrace.

Best Things I Did In Lima

  • Discover Centro Histórico – Lima’s historical centre is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is full of gorgeous architecture – the main square ‘Plaza Mayor’, is a delightful place.
  • Visit Convento de San Francisco – I took a tour of the catacombs underneath this historical monastery, which was amazing but is certainly not for the faint of heart! Expect to see a lot of skull and bones down darkly lit tunnels.

👉 Where I Stayed In Lima: Hotel España Lima Peru

Probably the best hotel I stayed at throughout my 3 weeks in Peru. Hotel España is a gorgeous hotel located very centrally in the historical centre.

With classical paintings on the walls and lovely decor throughout the hotel, it feels like you’re staying in an art museum rather than an accommodation place.

The staff are super friendly and the price is very affordable. I can’t recommend Hotel España highly enough when visiting Lima.

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    Day 2: Lima To Cusco

    After a full day exploring Lima, I caught a flight to Peru’s other major city – Cusco. More historical than Lima, Cusco is known as the centrepoint for tourists ready to discover the many ancient sites of Peru.

    I spent one day in Cusco, which was a mistake. It is advised to spend several days in the city to fully acclimatise to the altitude. And there is so much to do in and around Cusco that I recommend at least 2-3 days here.

    Best Things I Did In Cusco

    • San Pedro Food Market – A large, bustling food market in the centre of the city, this is an awesome place to explore for food lovers, or if you just want to get a feeling for the local culture.
    • Saqsaywaman – This Inca fortress high up from the city is an engrossing place to explore, and the views of Cusco from here are incredible.
    • Cusco Cathedral – Visiting this 16th-century cathedral during Easter, when it was crowded with locals, was another unforgettable experience in Peru.
    Cusco Cathedral.
    Cusco Cathedral.

    👉 Where I Stayed In Cusco: Hostal Mallqui

    This delightful guesthouse was a great place to stay in Cusco. The hostel is based just a few blocks away from San Pedro Market, and it’s good value for money. They also serve a fantastic breakfast.

    ➡️ Check for Availability at Hostal Mallqui here

    Day 4: Cusco To Aguas Calientes

    I spent day 4 of my Peru adventure travelling from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, the nearest town to Machu Picchu.

    To get there, I caught a bus to Ollantaytambo and then a train, which is one of the most famous train rides in the world. I booked my tickets with Peru Rail and thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

    The train tickets to Aguas Calients aren’t cheap, however (my train and bus journey cost well over £100). But there are different price ranges available depending on train times and splitting the journey up with a bus ride as well.

    Day 5: Machu Picchu!

    Day 5 was reserved for my visit to Peru’s number one attraction: the incredible Machu Picchu!

    Seeing this ancient wonder of the world certainly didn’t disappoint, but choosing your ticket can be a time-consuming and frustrating experience. Here are my top tips for booking the right ticket for Machu Picchu:

    • Visit in the afternoon to experience the site with fewer crowds. I would have loved to have visited during sunrise, but this is the busiest time to visit.
    • Choose Circuit 2 – There are different circuits you can choose at Machu Picchu, and for me, Circuit 2 is the best. This gives you access to the main site and has the best views. It is certainly better than Circuit 3, which I also did, but wasn’t as good.
    • Book months in advance – The earlier you book, the better, as tickets sell out months in advance.

      You can book through the Peruvian government website, but I experienced payment difficulties with the site, so I booked through a tour agent instead, which cost a little bit more.
    • Visit with a tour guide – A big mistake I made was not visiting Machu Picchu with a guide. I wanted to save money, but in retrospect, I really missed out on historical info that a guide provides, which would have vastly improved my experience.
    • Expect a lot of tourists – Regardless of what time you visit, there will be a lot of tourists wanting that picture-perfect photo.
    My picture-perfect photo at Machu Picchu.
    My picture-perfect photo at Machu Picchu.

    Day 6: Aguas Calientes To Ollantaytambo

    On Day 6 I said goodbye to Aguas Calientes and headed to Ollantaytambo, which you’ll stop at during your train journey to and from Machu Picchu.

    It doesn’t matter too much, but in retrospect, it would have made more sense for me to visit Ollantaytambo on my way to Machu Picchu, rather than afterwards.

    Day 7: Ollantaytambo

    Ollantaytambo was one of my favourite places I visited during my whole Peruvian adventure.

    Smaller and less touristic than Cusco, this town is often skipped over by travellers on their way to Machu Picchu, which is a crying shame.

    I fully recommend spending at least a day exploring the cobbled streets and ancient archaeological sites close to the town’s centre.

    Best Things I Did In Ollantaytambo:

    • Archaeological Park – One of the main archaeological parks in the Sacred Valley region, with amazing views of Ollantaytambo from the top.
    • Pinkuylluna – Directly opposite the park is Pinkuylluna, a former Inca site. You have a short, steep hike to reach it, but you’re greeted with more great views once there.
    • Moray Ruins – An experimental ancient farming site located outside of the town, this is an interesting place to discover.
    • Maras Salt Mines – Not too far away from Moray Ruins, this huge salt mine dates back over 500 years and features over 600 salt ponds that are still in use today.

    👉 Where I Stayed In Ollantaytambo: Casa Inka B&B

    Another one of the best places I stayed during my Peru adventure was Casa Inka B&B.

    It’s situated just a short walk from the main square in Ollantaytambo and is away from the busy centre. My room was perfect and had an amazing view to wake up to.

    It’s a very affordable place and I would recommend it to anyone looking for a peaceful and pleasant stay in Ollantaytambo.

    ➡️ Book a room at Casa Inka B&B by clicking here

    Day 8: Rainbow Mountain!

    Rainbow Mountain is, without a doubt, a highlight of my Peru trip, and you should definitely include it in your itinerary.

    It is a 3-hour drive away from Cusco, and a lot of people are put off by this, as well as the fact that Rainbow Mountain can get extremely busy with tourists.

    But if you time your visit right, you can have this spectacular mountain all to yourself.

    Spectacular views at Rainbow Mountain.
    Spectacular views at Rainbow Mountain.

    Best Time To Visit Rainbow Mountain

    If you decide to visit Rainbow Mountain through a tour company, then you can expect an early start time and a crowded scene when you arrive.

    However, if you book your own driver independently and visit the mountain later in the day, then there will be fewer crowds. I left Cusco at 8 am, which meant I arrived at the mountain before midday.

    Crowds of tourists were walking back down the 3 kilometre route from the mountaintop, while I was almost the only person walking in the direction of the mountain!

    There were still at least 20-30 tourists busy taking selfies by the time I reached the peak, but this is a considerably smaller number of people compared with visiting earlier in the morning.

    Days 9 & 10: Puerto Maldonado

    Early on day 9, I caught a short 40-minute flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado, a small city based in the Amazon rainforest.

    Spending a couple of days in the Amazon rainforest was an amazing experience and a noticeable contrast to the rest of Peru. Expect a very tropical climate and loads of wildlife.

    My only regret is that I didn’t spend more time at Puerto Maldonado. I only stayed for 2 days because I wanted to visit Bolivia.

    Ideally, you should stay at least 3-4 days and go on plenty of wildlife trips, relax and fully appreciate this magical part of Peru.

    Where I Stayed In Puerto Maldonado: Amazon Lodge Tambopata

    I stayed at lodgings at a guesthouse organised by Tambopata Jungle Tours. They offer many fun activities, including jungle trekking, piranha fishing and even ayahuasca ceremonies.

    The lodgings are basic – expect your electricity and water to be infrequent at times, but it’s to be expected when staying in the jungle.

    River views at Puerto Maldenado.
    River views at Puerto Maldenado.

    Day 10: Puerto Maldonado To Puno

    On day 10, I left the jungle behind and was faced with my first overnight bus to Puno, via Juliaca. I was pleasantly surprised with the semi-cama buses in Peru (buses that have almost fully reclining seats) and was able to sleep quite soundly.

    Bus rides in Peru can be extremely long, however. Puerto Maldonado to Juliaca took 11 hours, and then I had a 40-minute taxi ride in the early hours of the following morning to my hotel in Puno.

    Day 11: Lake Titicaca

    I visited Puno to go on a boat trip on the highest elevated lake in the world: Lake Titicaca. This is another must-visit place in Peru, and I also really enjoyed Puno as a city.

    I took a 3-hour boat trip on Lake Titicaca that included a visit to the Uros Islands, which are inhabited floating islands on the lake.

    Meeting and learning about the indigeneous families that live on the Uros Islands is a unique experience, as is getting the entire boat ride on Lake Titicaca. My tour guide was very professional, and I fully recommend this trip.

    ➡️ Visit the Uros Islands on Lake Titicaca by booking here

    Days 12-15: Bolivia

    Here’s where my Peru adventure turned into a Bolivian adventure! With Lake Titicaca sharing the border with Bolivia, it was too close for me not to visit.

    I spent one day in La Paz and then travelled overnight and back again to spend a day exploring the otherworldly Uyuni Salt Flats.

    Although I’m glad I got to visit Bolivia, it was a tiring leg of my journey, and it meant shortening my time in certain places in Peru (such as Puerto Maldenado), which was a shame.

    At the Uyuni Salt Flats in Bolivia.
    At the Uyuni Salt Flats in Bolivia.

    Day 16: Arequipa

    Arequipa is another fantastic city in Peru that is worth allocating one day to your itinerary for exploring. With a rich history and breathtaking mountain views in the distance, I found Arequipa a lively and beautiful place to spend a day.

    Day 17: Full Day Tour To Colca Canyon

    My reason for visiting Arequipa (and the same goes for most travellers) was so I could visit Colca Canyon on day 17 of my trip.

    Known as the second-deepest canyon in the world, following the Grand Canyon, Colca Canyon offers awe-inspiring views of the Andes Mountains and the chance to see condors flying close by through the gorge.

    I went on a full one-day trip to the canyon, which includes a visit to the Chacapi Hot Springs and the Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve.

    Although it is a long day of travel (you’ll be picked up at 3 am in Arequipa), the canyon and surrounding areas are unmissable and a top highlight in Peru.

    ➡️ Visit the Amazing Colca Canyon by booking here

    Breathtaking views at Colca Canyon.
    Breathtaking views at Colca Canyon.

    Day 19: Fly Over The Nazca Lines

    After travelling from Arequipa to Nazca on day 18, on day 19, I did one of my favourite activities during my 3 weeks in Peru: flying over the incredible Nazca Lines.

    If you don’t know, the Nazca Lines are a series of ancient geoglyphs in the soil of the Nazca desert, that depict various animals such as a monkey, frog, hummingbird and so on.

    They’re really quite mysterious and fascinating! The best way to see them is from directly above in the sky. It’s possible to take a 30-minute plane ride over the lines to see them as they were intended to be seen – it’s well worth doing so.

    ➡️ Fly over the Nazca Lines by booking here

    Day 21: Huacachina

    Following a travel day on day 20 (from Nazca to Huacachina), and on my last full day in Peru, I enjoyed one last awesome location: Huacachina.

    A small oasis in the middle of a desert, Huacachina is probably the most unique destination I stayed at throughout my Peru adventure.

    It is a tiny town next to the oasis that is made up of hotels, restaurants and shops, but the nearby surroundings of huge sand dunes are simply spectacular.

    You may think there’s not an awful lot to do in Huacachina, but you’d be surprised. I climbed a sand dune in the morning and went on a thrilling dune buggy ride and sandboarding activity in the afternoon, which was so enjoyable.

    Both the dune buggy ride and the sandboarding are such fun activities. It was the perfect end to my trip! They are both must-do activities in Huacachina, and I fully recommend them if you’re visiting.

    ➡️ Ride a Dune Buggy & go Sandboarding in Huacachina here

    Desert views at Huacachina.
    Desert views at Huacachina.

    3 Weeks In Peru Itinerary: Mistakes I Made

    Looking back on my 3 weeks in Peru, there are quite a few mistakes I made with my itinerary that I would change if I were to do the same trip again:

    What I Would Do Differently Next Time

    Don’t fly directly to Cusco: Flying straight to Cusco after spending just 1-2 days in Lima was a huge mistake in terms of acclimatisation.

    I had one long, bad headache the entire time I was in Cusco, as I didn’t spend sufficient time acclimatising to the altitude.

    I would actually change my route entirely if I had to do the trip again. Here is what I believe to be a much better itinerary:

    • 2 days in Lima
    • Lima to Paracas
    • Spend 1-2 days in Paracas
    • 1 day in Huacachina
    • 1 day in Nazca
    • 1-2 days in Arequipa
    • 3-4 days in the Amazon Jungle
    • At least 2 days in Cusco
    • Rainbow Mountain
    • 1-2 days in Ollantaytambo
    • Machu Picchu
    • Cusco to Lima

    Leaving Machu Picchu until the end of the trip would be much more satisfying, and by the time you reach Cusco, you should be fully acclimatised to the elevation.

    FAQ: 3 Weeks In Peru Itinerary

    Still unsure if 3 weeks in Peru is the right trip for you? Allow me to answer some of the most commonly asked questions about this topic:

    Is 3 weeks in Peru enough time?

    No, I don’t think 3-weeks was enough time to visit all the places I wanted to see in Peru without feeling as if I was rushing.

    I thought 3 weeks would be enough time, but Peru is a huge country and there is a lot of travelling from one destination to the next.

    If you have enough time and can afford it, I highly recommend planning a month long trip to Peru, which would allow for a more leisurely and less rushed itinerary.

    How much money do you need for 3 weeks in Peru?

    Here’s a rough guide to how much money I spent during my 3 weeks in Peru:

    • Flights – my return flights (which included a connecting flight in Madrid from London Gatwick), cost in the region of £700-£800. I flew in April/May, so tickets will be more expensive in the peak summer season.
    • Hotels – I spent roughly £300 on hotels over 3 weeks. This may sound cheap, but I stayed at mostly budget, 2-star hotels throughout my trip.
    • Food and travel – somewhere in the region of £200-£300.
    • Tours and activities – about £400-£500.

    Is Bolivia or Peru better?

    This is a tough one, but I would choose Peru over Bolivia if I had to choose just one country to visit between the two.

    Peru is a lot more touristic than Bolivia and has more must-see places like Machu Picchu of course.

    That’s not to say that Bolivia is lacking in things to do. La Paz was my favourite city overall, and the Uyuni Salt Flats are breathtaking.

    Some people prefer Bolivia because it is less touristy than Peru, but in my opinion, Peru is just unmissable.

    Conclusion: My 3 Weeks In Peru

    So that concludes everything you need to know about my 3 weeks in Peru itinerary! Peru is everyone’s trip of a lifetime and one of the most memorable and enjoyable trips I have done in a long time.

    It is a country packed with amazing places and adventures, from the most incredible historical sites to fun activities such as flying over the Nazca Lines and riding a dune buggy in Huacachina.

    I’ve learned a lot from my mistakes with my 3 week Peru itinerary, and I hope this has given you an insight into what not to do when visiting one of the most extraordinary countries in a limited amount of time.

    ➡️ Planning your trip? Here are my favourite resources:

    🏨 Accommodation: I recommend using Booking.com
    🚙 Rental Car: Use Discover Cars for the best car rental prices
    ❤️ Travel Insurance: I recommend using Visitors Coverage
    ✈️ Flights: Use Kiwi.com for the best prices on flights

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